Grizzly45

The cases I have have been worked pretty hard and have been reloaded a few times without breaking. After 3-4 reloads or so it's probably an idea.

I think we may be on to something.. The right cartridge is based on 8mm Kurtz, the left one is from the long process with .308 cases. The Kurtz-based cartridge chambers and headspaces OK, apparently, but it's a bit "loose" in the chamber. Will load up a few with come cheap bullets and a bit of N32C to fireform. Probably not able to test before Wednesday, we'll see. Thanks for the tip By the way - I used the neck expander ball from a .358 Win die set. And the case ended up at 32.6mm, no problems there.

I can't remember, really. I know I have a .357 expander ball but I'm unsure if it's from the CH4D set or from a .358 Win set I bought. Will experiment next week

I believe we need a rifle-type neck expander button. Your RCBS sizing/depriming die should have an expander button on the primer ejector pin. With careful lubing of the case inside & out, and the button placed at a point where the neck has some support - that should work. Could you check if that is included? You should be able to create a faux simile with an 8x57, well lubed, and not pushed too far..

Just found 100 new cases locally, woop woop. Hm. Need to find an expander die. Be back later

Hi @de50ae I'm truly glad you're finding this helpful. By now we're up to the estimated 4 people on planet Earth interested in this caliber, great And I think your idea is wonderful. 7,92x33 should form nicely to a shell with the proper neck thickness. I can't make up my mind if the reformed case will be slightly shorter or longer than 33mm, but in any case I think the length is be way more than close enough. The minuscule rim diameter difference should not be of consequence. Brilliant! Very happy when we can build on each others work & ideas (Btw - I have some once fired .50 AE cases (50 ish I think) I'll trade for some 7,92x33 Kurtz cases with Boxer pimers ) I want to try this (And I'm seriously jealous about those RCBS dies AND the 4 barrels..)

Hi I use Norma brass, have also used Federal & Winchester, once fired range pickup. There are wall thickness differences, I'm not sure which thickness is better. Internal volume is quite similar, if you want more you have to get .44 AMP Mag brass. Regarding bullets: The major obstacle for the bullets is the ramp in the frame of the gun, I believe. I haven't touched that, as the same ramp is of course used across all calibers. And it's a bit rough on the bullets in 357/45. In 45 Win Mag and .45 ACP I can feed SWC's and FPs without the issue, so I'm leaving the frame ramp alone. I have fresh springs in the magazines, and a fresh 27 lb recoil spring - that's all I can do with the gun. I find that even plated flat nose bullets and hard cast TC (hi-tec'ed :)) get bumped pretty hard, as in a chunk of lead getting chewed off.. So those Xtreme bullets might get hung up on the ramp, or get chewed. So I've settled for RN FMJ - they don't get hung up, and fly nicely up the ramp without getting mauled. If you're going to try cast, RN is the best bet, and a quite hard alloy. The TC's shown over are north of 20 Brinell and get chewed - at least some of them. I could get 4 in a group and the 5th flying off to the side. RNs would perhaps fare better. I'm guessing that the difference between the 45's and the 357/45 is the angle as they're hitting the ramp, the 357/45s are going in a more nose down approach, due to the taper of the shells.

Trim & reamer is good. As said, .355 works OK for me, depends a bit on which cases I use as donor. The RCBS were 356. 351 is way off, as is .357/8. Be careful about mails from "Dave" at CH4d - just got a spam/phish from someone who has broken into their mailbox, with a link to a veeery iffy download. Take care - use the phone to confirm before clicking.

Hi, yes I use a drill on the "Forster Classic" - it's a tough job getting through. I use motor oil to lube the cutter liberally. The 9mm Mag magazines have internal ribs in the sides of the magazine. I seem to remember that the 9mm Mag is the same length as the 45 Win mag? I use 19,0gr Vihtavuori N110 for 170gr Sierra RN FMJ and get 1616 fps with 40,6mm OAL. It's probably not max, but is quite a handful. Since this is a wildcat - you know better than taking my word for that data, you must test your way yourself. About the 110gr - turns out it was a 105gr, and I used 20,0gr Vihtavuori N105 for 2068 fps. This is possibly overpressure, and I only fired two. Better results should be possible with N110, Li'l Gun and similar. I sort of just wanted to check the box "> 2000fps from a pistol" With moderate loads the shells eject 45 degrees up to the right. When the shells embed themselves in the ceiling straight above your head, you know you're sniffing the read line.. High pressure loads are also hard on the shells, I suspect they smack into the slide on their way out, some case necks get dented so badly the case is a write-off

It's the closest thing we've got. Bit of sanding and creativity, you'll be right as rain. I have a Forster trimmer/reamer, chose the .355. The RCBS is 356. But I'm having issues with thin, not thick, case necks. So .355 is fine. I form the cases (lubed) on the sizing die without the de-capper. Chop to a bit above desired length (34-35mm). De-burr, size again. Expand case necks slightly. Ream & trim to 33mm. Size again. Now you have shells that can be cleaned, belled, primed & the rest. Remember a good crimp - the feed ramp is steep, you don't want the bullets being smashed back into the case, reducing the case volume & create over-pressure. .357's are good, jacketed FMJs. That feed ramp is hard on soft bullets, even plated bullets get banged enough to deform the nose. I've tried JHPs, RN FP, TC - the only ones that survive the trip up the feed ramp consistently are the FMJ RNs. This might be different with lighter springs & loads, but a 170gr bullet at 1600 fps (970 ft/lbs) is where the fun is Smacked a 110gr out at 2068 fps, not bad for a 6,5" barrel (a bit on the warm side, that load)

A lot to unravel here First of all - the guy on youtube is using the CH4D dies, plus a set of RCBS forming dies that haven't been manufactured since the 80'ies. That makes me about 100% sure that he bought the barrel & dies in the 80'ies, and forgot them for 40 years. In the video he's simply parroting the article above, without attribution, though with some screenshots The fact that his dies were too long, too ,makes me believe that CH4D never got these dies right. I just took a belt sander to the bottom of mine in small steps until a formed case "plunked" nice into the chamber. I can't find the case expander die, so apparently I dropped that early on for some reason. I'm using a hack with a Lee universal charger die & a neck expander from a .357 Mag set. The seater has a seater stem that's about 20mm (4/5th of an inch ish) too long. I've chopped it off, working on making a suitable dimple to push in the bullets. In the mean time, I'm simply using a .45 ACP seating die. The crimper is OK, it could touch more of the neck than just the mouth, but it's OK. So - CH4D - OKish, needs a bit of work If they still have them, you can hack it, too. Note that the guy on youtube stops a few steps short of seating & crimping, probably because he discovered that the .355 bullets dropped clear into the cases. I'm using .357 FMJ's in mine, the bore is .3575. You can make a chamber cast, and I can send you a few formed & sized cases. Fill them 70% with TrailBoss, use a mallet to push some .357's into the case, feed them manually (to avoid unseating the bullets on the feed ramp), and presto - you have 3 fired cases. When I went looking for custom dies, they mostly said "come back in a few years, we're busy". Might have changed?

Har tråkla litt videre. Har sjekka fres-lengden - den er plenty, se bilde Da var det ikke det. Tomt for Norma, så jeg prøvde "GGG" hylser. (Det var de jeg hadde flest av. Får ikke høsta Norma på et par uker) De var merkbart tjukkere i godset etter saging. Fresingen ga mye penere spon, og hylsehalsen fleksa mindre. Tok det pent, særlig i smultringland. Håpet stiger. Men nope. Mindre smultring, men dårligere hold. Skal sjekke litt mer - glemte å vaske vekk freseolja, men kjentes litt lett ut. Tror jeg beveger meg mot Norma, og så polere innsiden av halsen med stålull for å fjerne grader. Med litt smøring bør det la meg sette kulene uten for mye krøll, er planen. Other news: De Normaene som ikke krølla gikk fjell, bra prez og ES. De jeg dobbeltfresa, som hadde for slapt kulehold gikk også greit, men hastigheten lå 50 f/s under de med godt hold og smultring.

Takk for mye gode innspill! Jeg lager bare tut ytterst, da jeg ikke har riktig ekspanderknapp til kaliberet. Vil fresingen bli riktigere om jeg får åpna hele halsen før fresing? (Diene er et kapitel for seg - siz'ern var for lang, og satt skuldra på feil sted, seater stem'en var 2,5 cm for lang, den eneste dia som faktisk virka uten modding var crimp. Jeg gjetter på at C4H har sendt meg det siste settet de hadde på hylla, et feillablet sett som egentlig er til .357 AMP, med en seaterstem fra en riflepatron) Jeg har prøvd .44 Automag, de var tynnere men måtte fremdeles freses. Den gang freste jeg uten tut på hylsa og endte med for lite gods i halsen og dårlig hylsehold. Jeg har vel egentlig konvertert til .308, i og med at alt må freses allikevel. Og tilgangen på 1-gangsskutte NP på skytebanen er litt mer stabil enn Starlines produksjon av .44 Automag Å frese med nakkestøtte er jo en mulighet.. Må tenke litt..

.357/45 GWM Jobber med å få en 170gr kule opp i 500 m/s fra en 6,5" pipe. Det er faktisk mulig at jeg kan sette fresen litt lengre ut, og se om den rett og slett stopper litt tidlig. God idé Den ser egentlig ofsleg lang ut, men jeg har vel egentlig ikke finmålt. I alle verste fall kan jeg droppe å frese og trimme samtidig, da bør jeg i alle fall være sikker på å komme i bunn. Og ekspanderknappen finnes ikke Jeg lager litt tut med litt jallamekking fra noen .357 mag dies.

Ja, og ja. Dette er egentlig en håndvåpenpatron, så helpressedia er litt short på ekspanderknapp.. Og jeg har de diene jeg har - sist lagd på 80-tallet.. Og settet kom med en advarsel om at "hvis hylsehalsen blir for tynn, så lag en liten tut før fresing". Tipper at ved første gang fresing så tar det lite høyt oppe, mer midt på, og himmelens navn vet hvorfor den ikke tar neders. Forster .355 trimmer, de der burde ha kontroll på diametre..

Hei Jeg trøbler med en wildcat - en 33mm lang hylse basert på en 51mm .308 hylse. Jeg må forme hylsene fra .308-hylser, sage dem av på ca 33mm, forme dem igjen, åpne hylsehalsen litt, frese innvendig for å bli kvitt litt gods, trimme lengden til 33mm, forme igjen. Da er jeg *nesten* i mål. Nederst i den nå nyfresede hylsehalsen på den nypressede hylsa er det nå en innvendig "bulk" med litt ekstra messing. Når jeg presser nedi en kule, så får jeg litt ofte en krøll på hylsehalsen rett over skuldra, når kula tar i denne bulken. Det går litt bedre når jeg smører hylsehalsen før jeg seat'er kula. Det hadde sikkert gått veldig bra hvis jeg hadde hatt boat-tail på kula, men det er ikke en opsjon. En kortere kue som ikke tar nedi bulken er også supert, men jeg får ikke tak i slike i dette kaliberet. Jeg har prøvt å forme & frese en gang til for å få vekk bulken, men da får jeg for slapt kulehold. Det verste er at dette HAR jeg lest om et sted - og husker ikke hva eller hvor.. Any ideas?

Since you have the barrels, the next challenge is the dies. The neck size & shoulder taper is different between the 357 AMP and 357/45 GWM, i don't know where the 38/45 Clerke sits in there. My guess would be chambering problems, as the Clerke forms the neck way further down on the case. Easiest way to goal: 357 AMP, start with .357 AMP dies and .44 AMP cases, form, trim, and you're good to go. 357/45 is doable, but not optimal, as I suspect the dies I got are not quite there. A set of properly shaped dies would help a lot.. Starting with a .45 Colt you'll need a custom chamber reamer, custom dies, the whole 9 yards. And with the US in a panic, there's a multi month / year lead time on custom reamers & dies.

If you're reaming a chamber anyway, choosing the 357 AMP would be easier, as chamber reamers, shells, dies etc are available. If you're forming cases from a .45 Colt, the necks probably won't need inside reaming, the primary reason for needing the reaming is that the cases are formed from rifle cases, and that the throat of the chamber is very tight. If you ream the chamber a little looser in the neck, you can get away with thicker cases. If you're using a Contender, I would consider a .357 barrel, as the availability of suitable bullets are better than .355

Nerding hard here - here's some more info, that'll hopefully be of interest to someone sometime. Here's RCBS' original data for the cartridge (1) Here's RCBS' original data for the cartridge (2) Load data. With my limited experience, these results seem to match my own. These seem to have been shot in an actual Grizzly, not a 10" test barrel. Da big boy himself. Comparison of a .357 Mag, .357/45 GWM and a 9x19 (9mm, 9mm Luger)

Jeg bruker Mini-mag i min, det eneste som går helt stabilt. Madammen har en annen .22 PPK som spiser det meste.

Kompendiet overstyrer rundskrivet. I Kompendiet står det: "Skyttere som fyller vilkårene som mosjonsskytter eller konkurranseskytter kan erverve ett våpen for hvert bruksområde." Det gjelder, og overstyrer den forrige definisjonen at "dersom et våpen KAN brukes så... " POD er helt tydelige på dette, og har skrevet det i kompendiet. Dersom du har X bruksområder og <X våpen, og får avslag begrunnet i at du allerede har et våpen som KAN brukes, så vil POD gjerne høre om det.

Jeg har .22, .7,65 og 9x17 i PPK. Hver sin sjarm, men poengene kommer med .22.. Har du fjuskete magasin på din PPK?

litt flaut å si det, men tror det var typ 1500,- Men magasiner må man ha..

Hvis noen trenger .22 PPK magasiner, så fikk jeg to stk herfra: https://www.triplek.com/product/walther-ppk-22lr-8-rd-magazine-or-grips/ De lager dem når de har fått nok bestillinger, kan godt hende de fremdeles har på lager, jeg mottok mine i våres. De passer & funker helt flott i en Ulm PPK fra ca '67. (De har ei ræva magasinfjær som er et helvete å få inn igjen, og jeg måtte file litt på plastikken for å få de til å seate i en '71-modell, men de er pålitelige og trauste)

Bare for å klargjøre - den der med "hvert bruksområde" gjelder alle forbundene. Så hvis du er medlem i NSF, DSSN og Metallsiluett, og la oss si at de tilsammen har 30 bruksområder, så kan du erhverve 30 våpen, og 5 av dem kan gjerne være identiske 9mm'ere hvis du finner så mange bruksområder hvor 9mm er tillatt blant de 30. Hvis du legger deg på en miniglock, så kan du i alle fall få en slik en til MilFelt, SpesialPistol, Production, Standard og SivilPistol2. (Gitt at du oppfyller aktivitetskrav og kjøpesperrer som forbundet sette osv. )