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Rengjøring av Python


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Hmm, har du dårlige erfaringer med dette?


Jeg har hatt flere Pythoner og aldri ofret det en tanke. De har vært like fine etter års pussing med all slags lurium. Og jeg pusser mer enn jeg ikke pusser for å si det slik.


Men: Ikke oppbevar noe våpen i kuffert med skumgummi innlegg - da kan du få deg en ubehagelig overraskelse...

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Nei jeg har ingen erfaring i det hele tatt. Jeg har hatt min Python noen år nå. Men kanskje bare skutt 5-600 skudd. Så jeg har ikke hatt behov for å gjøre noe annet enn enkel puss. Men har skutt litt mer i det siste og tenkte jeg skulle gjøre den skikkelig ren. Og så var jeg usikker på om noe sovlent kunne skade blåneringa. Men jeg ser mange bruker feks Hoppes no 9 så da kan jeg sikkert prøve meg med det. 

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22 hours ago, Rawlins said:

Og så var jeg usikker på om noe sovlent kunne skade blåneringa.


Jeg har aldri brukt annet enn vanlig våpenolje til puss av håndvåpen. Ikke en gang med 454 Casull, hvor kulehastigheten kommer opp mot 2000fps, har jeg hatt behov for annet enn olje og bronsebørste til puss. Ser ingen grunn til å bruke solvent hvis ikke det er helt nødvendig.

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Ja på Python må solvent til, om ikke hver gang.


Avleiringene i fordypningene på tønnen og på avfasingen i forkant av tønnen samler mye gugg. Og det skal ikke jeg ha noe av på min Python.


Etter solvent, tørking med ren lapp og deretter godt med olje. Jeg skal ikke ha rust heller.


likeins olje i løpet.

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Ja der er spesielt i fordypningene på tønna jeg sliter med. Kopiert fra Coltforum:

There is no "right way" to clean a revolver, but there are any number of wrong ways.
Here's A WAY that I've used for years on customer and my guns.

Materials. You'll need the following:
A one-piece stainless steel cleaning rod. Not aluminum, not brass, not a bore snake.
If the rod doesn't come with a brass cone-shaped muzzle guide, buy one.

Brass cleaning rod patch holders.
The best are the button type, not the loop type. Don't buy plastic, they tend to break off and leave part in the rod threads.
A newer type are nickel plated brass. These help to prevent the brass tip from leaving stains on the patch that may look like copper fouling from the bore.

These come in round or square and in cotton and synthetic. The best are cotton. Buy them in bulk from Brownell's or else where.

Bore solvent.
Pistols don't copper foul as badly as high power rifles, so it's not a critical to get it out of the bore. Hoppe's #9 is well known, won't harm the gun, and works well. Just buy whatever solvent you want and try it, there are plenty available.
READ THE LABEL. Some can damage the bore if left in too long. If your gun is nickel plated, don't allow solvents to soak on the outside. Use the solvent to clean the bore and wipe it off as soon as possible. Used correctly, there's no reason not to use bore solvent on a nickel gun.

Bore and chamber brushes.
Buy bronze brushes ONLY, no stainless steel. Buy plenty, brushes wear out quickly.
Buy bronze chamber brushes from Brownell's. These are extra-stiff, over-sized brushes that clean chamber fast and work better than using over-sized bore brushes.

Buy a Lewis Lead Remover Kit from Brownell's.
These are used to clean leading from the bore and are used to clean leading, carbon, and copper fouling off the critical forcing chamber in the rear of the barrel. Even if all you shoot are jacketed bullets you still need the Lewis kit to clean the cone.

Toothbrushes, and brass "toothbrushes".
These are used to scrub fouling off the frame and rear of the barrel.

A "lead-removal" cloth.
Buy this ONLY IF THE GUN IS STAINLESS. The lead removal cloth wipes lead and carbon fouling off cylinder faces and from around the rear of the barrel and the outside of the cylinder.
These will also wipe the bluing right off a blued gun so never use these on a blued gun.
NOTE: There is NO good reason to attempt to get all traces of carbon and lead off a cylinder face. The only reason is to attempt to make the gun look unfired, and all this does is risk damaging the cylinder face. If you don't want the gun to look fired....don't fire it.

A lead scraper.
If you fire lead bullets make a scraper from BRASS. You can use a brass rod filed into a screwdriver-like blade, sheet brass, or a brass rifle case with the mouth smashed shut and filed into a chisel shape.

The most debated subject on the internet is lubricant. Just buy one and try it.
No lubricant stands above any other, and any lube made for firearms will work fine. 
Some people use Mobile One automotive engine oil, but remember that most engine lubricants offer little to NO protection from rust.
I recommend avoiding lubricants not specifically made for guns. Many lubricants are for specialized use and may not work well in firearms. There's really little reason to use non-gun lubes that may not work and protect as well.

A bore inspection mirror.
This is handy for inspecting the bore from the rear end to look for leading or fouling in the forcing cone and leade area of the barrel.

A plastic solvent application pipette. 
These are small plastic bulbs with a long tube. You suck bore solvent out of the jar and apply it where needed. This prevents contaminating the solvent and allows getting the right amount of solvent right where needed.
You can buy these from lab supply houses, or Brownell's sell Accu-Bore brand pipettes.

To clean a revolver.
Disassembly is not necessary. If you want to remove the cylinder from the frame, be aware that that will damage the screw slot on the cylinder retention screw over time, even if you use a Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bit.
NEVER use any screwdriver other than a real gunsmiths bit. Doing so always damages screw slots and lets the world know you're a gun butcher.

1. If the gun was fired with lead bullets, use the Lewis Lead Remover to remove the leading from the barrel.
Whether lead or jacketed bullets, use the Lewis forcing cone cleaner to clean the forcing cone.

2. Run a patch soaked with bore solvent down the bore and each chamber.
Always use the brass cone-shaped muzzle protector on the rod to keep the rod from touching the muzzle.

3. Use a bore brush with bore solvent to brush the bore.
Make about 10 passes through the bore and back out. 
NEVER reverse a brush in the bore. Always push it all the way through before pulling it back out.
Wrap some paper towel inside the frame window to catch excess solvent and prevent the brush from hitting the breech face.

4. Use a bronze chamber brush to brush out the chambers.
"Screw" the brush into the chamber until half of it out the front, then rotate the brush a few turns, push it the rest of the way through, then pull it back out.

5. Run a couple of soaked patches through the chambers.
Let the bore and chambers soak while you clean the rest of the gun.

6. Use solvent and a brass toothbrush to lightly scrub the face of the cylinder to remove any build up. 
Again, attempting to remove all signs of firing is not a good idea.

7. Use a dry brass toothbrush to scrub the under side of the ejector and it's seat in the rear of the cylinder.

8. Use a nylon solvent-proof toothbrush to scrub the inside of the frame, especially the area around and above the firing pin hole. Use paper towel and a toothbrush with solvent to clean off any traces of fouling from inside the frame window and around the outside of the frame.

9. Use solvent, brushes, and towel to clean the outside of the cylinder.
If the gun is stainless a lead-away cloth works very well.

10. Use a brass toothbrush and solvent to scrub the rear of the barrel and the frame around it.
If you shoot lead, use the brass scraper to scrape off leading. Usually this will just flake off. 
If the gun is stainless you can use the lead-away cloth to wipe the area around and above the barrel, using the cloth like dental floss.

11. After allowing the bore to soak at least 30 minutes (READ THE LABEL for safe soak times) wet a clean patch and run it straight through the bore and out the end inside the frame.
Check the patch for blue or green stains that indicate the presence of copper fouling. If you see these stains allow the bore to soak longer. READ THE LABEL.
NOTE: "Pumping" a patch up and down the bore will actually remove the blue or green stains from the patch and lead you to think the bore is clean. In addition, pumping a patch up and down a bore does little to clean. The purpose of a patch is to carry clean solvent into the bore, and dirty solvent out.
Last, pumping a patch will cover the fabric with gray metal stains from the patch rubbing on the steel. This may look like fouling but isn't.

12. If/when the bore shows no stains on the patch, run several clean, dry patches through to dry the bore.
After drying inspect the bore carefully from both ends for any traces of fouling, then wet a patch with a good lube and run it through the bore to coat it. Run one or two patches through to remove the excess lube, leaving a very thin coat to prevent rust.

13. Run clean patches through the chambers to dry, inspect all chambers from the front and back, then run a patch with lube through each chamber to coat, then a couple of dry patches.

14. Wipe the entire gun clean and dry with paper towel or a soft cloth.

15. Put a small drop of lube in the front of the cylinder where the crane shaft enters.
Occasionally put a small drop of lube down the front of the hammer, and on the crane shaft where it enters the front of the frame. Occasionally put a drop of lube up inside the frame with the grips off.

16. Apply a thin coat of lube or a NON-automotive wax to the outside of the gun to protect it. 

Use expedient materials.
Many of these can work, but many can ruin a gun. As example using vinegar and hydrogen peroxide can help remove leading, but it also removes bluing and can damage gun steel.

Brass and aluminum rods can allow grit to embed in the soft metal and this turns the rod into a lapping rod that can quickly damage the delicate rifling at the muzzle. Use only stainless steel or carbon fiber one-piece rods.
Screw together rods never join perfectly and the joint can catch on a muzzle and really damage the barrel.

Bore snakes are popular, but..... They were intended to be used as quick field cleaners. They don't get a bore really clean, and every time you pull it through you're pulling the old grit and fouling right back through again.
Worse, many people wash the dirty snakes, which deteriorates the material. Like all pull-through cleaners, sooner or later they WILL break off in a bore.
If the snake breaks off, attempts to pull it back out the other end often cause that end to break off too. 
The snake makers have NO recommended method of extracting a jammed bore snake.
Use a bore snake at your own risk and when they get dirty, throw it away and buy a new one.

When ever you're tempted to use some expedient material or method, stop for a minute and think: Does this really sound like a good idea? Exactly what am I gaining by using it? Why is this better than a product or method that was made for use in guns? If it's cheaper, is it going to save you enough money to warrant risking an expensive gun? 
The term "Penny wise, Dollar foolish" comes to mind.

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Good golly.


Den fyren der kan ikke pusse våpenet ofte. Mine løp er blanke etter et par drag. 


Og jeg plukker gjerne ned hele våpenet noen ganger iløpet av sesongen.


Hvis noen er opptatt av dette så gjør jeg det slik:

Olje er et petroleumsprodukt og dunster vekk med tid. Oljefilmen  må vedlikeholdes hvis våpenet blir liggende en stund uten å bli brukt (og pusset).

Tykk olje når våpenet legges vekk for sesongen.

Tynn olje (feks alle glideflater, ramme/sleide etc) før bruk.

Tørrpussing av løp, materamper, magasiner før bruk.



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3 hours ago, hipshot said:

Det trekker til seg fuktighet.

Jeg har hatt min i en koffert med skumgummi i mange år. I en kjeller som ikke alltid har vært helt tørr. (tørr nå). Det har heldigvis gått bra. Men jeg skal få meg et "rack" eller noe jeg kan ha i våpenskapet så den står på utstilling når jeg åpner døra. Litt synd at skapet mitt ikke er så veldig dypt. 

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