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Armourer

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Everything posted by Armourer

  1. På NFPS sidene står det nå at det er utsatt. Er det noen som vet om det i det hele tatt blir noe rifle NM i år?
  2. Skjønner jeg var litt uklar, hadde ikke notatene min da jeg skrev dette i går... Det jeg sier er at miljø ammo`en til Nammo er den eneste miljø ammunisjonen som har klart kravet. NM60 klarte selvfølgelig også kravet. Her kan dere lese spec`en på 7,62: http://www.defensemunitions.com/nammo/7 ... ions-1.pdf" target="_blank Det er riktig som du sier om 550meter også Høggern, men da er kravet 25cm. Og siden jeg også var uklar med tanke på 25mm på 100, dette gjelder 5,56 og 7,62 Det med at det ikke er målt trykk endring gjelder 9mm. Ellers er det en veldig bra artikkel i SARA Bulletin no. 111 utgitt April 2011, for de som har tilgang på den. De lover også en ny artikkel i neste nr, med mer info om forbedringene som blir gjort på 5,56. Problemet med tanke på presisjon er vel at så lenge de er under kravet så er det desverre godt nok. Selv om vi er godt vant med bedre presisjon på NM60. SS109 er vel ikke blyfri? Cartridge, Caliber 5.56 mm, Ball, M855 (United States): 5.56x45mm 62-grain FN SS109 ball cartridge, green tip w/steel penetrator and a lead core.
  3. Noen fakta opplysninger til alle ryktene: Sprednings krav: 25mm på 100m (MOPI NATO krav, Nammo miljø ammo er den eneste som holder kravet) Forøvrig samme krav som blyholdig forsvars ammo holder. (altså ingen stor presisjon, men det er ikke kravet) Typisk spredning holder forøvrig 15-20mm. En Glock er testet med 20000 skudd av FLO, og den holder fremdeles sprednings kravet. Det er ikke målt økt trykk ved bruk av miljø ammo. Miljø ammo er helt uten bly i prosjektil, krutt og tennhette. Spissen er herdet ikke kjernen. Mantelen er av samme matr som mantelen på blyholdig ammo. Våpenet blir mer møkkete ved bruk av miljø ammo, ergo puss oftere. Kruttet i 5,56 var av annen type enn i 7,62. (ny Lot som prøves nå har samme krutt som 7,62)
  4. Miljø ammo er vel, så vidt jeg vet, merket med CG(miljø) og ikke GFL(bly)!? F.eks: LOT 02-CG-01 (miljø ammo 5,56)
  5. Jeg har et slikt sett, men kunne tenkt meg flere magasiner. Og da fra andre produsenter, som har magasiner som er likt et .223 magasin i utforming. Er det noen som vet om magasiner fra andre .22 kit er ombyttbare med JAC kit`et?
  6. Tools leverer filler/tvist pakket i sånne "høyballer", mener å huske det var 25kg baller. Stoppet i alle fall lett en .22
  7. Har du sjekket Beverensport på Kongsberg? Vet ikke om han sender, men har i alle fall bra priser på .223 (S&B til 3,3kr, når man ikke kjøper kvantum)
  8. Man blander da ikke sigaretter inn i toppidrett, som praktisk selvfølgelig er...
  9. Det ser ut til at ekstra vekt i bolten hjelper på problemet En jeg skyter sammen med som ikke hadde en eneste tennhette punktering etter å ha montert dette: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1272 ... GHT_SYSTEM Har ikke prøvd det i egen Bushmaster enda, men det må prøves. Hadde 12 tennhette rester inni bolten etter ca 140 skudd forrige fredag. Og alle samles sikkert ikke opp der... Får holde meg til S&B på treningen i dag.
  10. Fant dette om tennhetter på sidene til Bushmaster. Nå er det jo ikke tennhettepunktering dem snakker om her, men kan jo være at det ene fører til det andre... "A SPECIAL NOTE: Lately we have been noticing that primers have been blowing out of their pockets at a much higher rate than usual. This seems to be a result of a diminished primer crimp applied to most .223 or 5.56 ammo by the manufacturer (probably to ease reloading). These loose primers can wreak havoc inside the receivers, causing all manner of binding, jams, and general mayhem. If you've got a jam that's driving you crazy, one that comes and goes, this might be the cause. A small rifle primer is just the right size to drop down inside the pistol grip screw hole and hide until the vibration of firing shakes it out, jamming the trigger but good. Compressed air will usually get these little suckers out, but sometimes you'll have to pull your hammer and trigger to get at it. It's something to watch for, anyway." Jeg har hyppige tennhettepunkteringer med Miljø ammo (5,56) i min Bushmaster. Men da snakker vi "litt" høyere trykk enn i annen .223. Har f.eks aldri problemer med S&B.
  11. Du kan prøve Mauser/(H&K) museet i Oberndorf. Ikke så veldig stort, men var verdt et besøk da jeg var på kurs hos H&K i fjor.
  12. Kan det være at det kan skje oftere på Bushmaster enn på f.eks HK416? Det var med et par stykker sist med helt nye Bushmastere, som også dette skjedde på.
  13. Jeg får relativt hyppig tennhettepunkteringer ved bruk av 5,56 Nato (miljø ammo) i min Bushmaster(den er kamret for 5,56). Problemet er at tennhette restene samler seg inne i bolten og fører til klikk. Er det noe man kan gjøre for å forebygge tennhettepunkteringene? Eller har Miljø ammo`en bare for høyt trykk...
  14. Hvordan kan jeg enkelt kontrollere om pipene jeg har er .308 eller 30-06? Prøve med en .308 patron kanskje. Den burde vel bli helt borte hvis pipen er 30-06? Fikk for øvrig et bra tips på hvordan man kan sjekke rifle stigning. Pussestokk med pusselapp. Merke av på stokken, så man kan se når den har rotert en gang. For så og måle hvor langt man har dyttet den inn. Blir kanskje ikke helt nøyaktig, men skal prøves. Bør vel kanskje kunne se om det er 1/10 eller 1/12.
  15. Er det noen der ut som vet hvilke riflestigning det er på MG34 pipene? MG34 F1 (7,62x63) MG34 F2 (7,62x51)
  16. Hvordan er aktiviteten hos dere i Praktiskgruppa? Ønsker å skyte både pistol (Production) og rifle(Open). (Har kurs) Hvordan er treningsforholdene for praktiskrifle på Myhrespiten?
  17. Armourer

    H&K45?

    Heisann! Har selv en USP .45 Tactical med Brugger Thomet demper Artig (stor)liten sak... Sivile H&K våpen importeres og selges hos Jevnaker agentur. http://www.jevnagent.no/
  18. Hvilke magasinholdere til AR15 magasin anbefales?
  19. Min er i Stål, er merket Steel på demperen. Mulig de som er laget til f.eks AR15 eller andre halvauto våpen er i stål. Nye erfaringer: Da har jeg prøvd noen skudd både med .22 innlegg og .223. Med .22 ble det meget bra (lite smell) . (prøvde CCI std, ELEY std og Nobel Subsonic) Ble vel litt mer smell enn jeg forventet med .223, da jeg har hørt at noen Timere (sånne som brukes i PS) har hatt problemer med å registrere smellet ved bruk av demper. Skal testes ut på neste "stevne". Det kom også forholdsvis mye kruttgasser tilbake ut utkaster åpningen. Blir det plagsomt får jeg vel bare kjøpe meg en justerbar gasblokk.
  20. Har nå kjøpt en A-Tec(CMM-6 stål) demper til min Bushmaster. Det jeg ser er anbefalt fra Brügger-Thomet er å bruke et "anti-seizing compound" på gjengene. (I fra engelsk talende Forum, snakker de bare om vanlig våpen olje. f.eks: CLP, Break Free) En A-tec demper bør vel helst smøres opp på alle gjengene mellom hver baffle? Noen erfaringer med hvilke olje som egner seg best til denne type bruk? Bør man ha et tynt lag olje også inni demperen for å forhindre for mye fastbrent dritt? Hva med å f.eks bruke kobberfett på gjengene, det skal tåle temperaturer fra -30 til +1100 grader? Erfaringer/synspunkt? Mine erfaringer med demperen pr nå: A-Tec demperen min ser grei ut foreløpig, ikke prøve skutt enda. Har rengjort den innvendig i dag, var en del rester etter produksjon inni den (spon ol.)
  21. Jeg har selv en P226 og bruker "aftermarket" magasiner med 17 skudd. Disse er iht reglene da de ytre målene ikke er større enn original magasinene. Som du ser er untaket. Ergo så kan ikke magasinet du sikter til med 20 skudds kapaitet stikke ut av pistolgrepet hvis du skal bruke dem. Hvis de ikke gjør det er de lovlig, uansett hvem som har laget de. Utdrag fra reglementet: 19.1 Modifications to them, other than minor detailing (the removal of burrs and/or adjustments unavoidably required in order to fit replacement OFM parts or components, and/or identifying marks which add or remove negligible weight to/from magazines), are prohibited. Other prohibited modifications include those which facilitate faster reloading (e.g. flared, enlarged and/or add-on magwells, etc.), changing the original color and/or finish of a handgun, and/or adding stripes or other embellishments. 19.2 Base plates and/or any other devices which provide additional ammunition capacity (e.g. “+2” magazine extensions), are prohibited. 19.3 Sights may be trimmed, adjusted and/or have sight black applied. 20. Aftermarket parts, components and accessories are prohibited, except as follows: 20.1 Aftermarket magazines which match the external dimensions of standard magazines offered by the OFM for the approved handgun are permitted.
  22. I følge denne regelen hentet i fra IPSC reglementet så må man bruke samme type sikter igjennom en hel match. 5.1.7: Competitors must use the same rifle and type of sights for all courses of fire in a match. However, in the event that a competitor’s original rifle and/or sights become unserviceable or unsafe during a match, the competitor must, before using a substitute rifle and/or sights, seek permission from the Range Master who may approve the substitution provided he is satisfied: Jeg har Aimpoint på min rifle. Det jeg lurer på er om det er lov å bruke Aimpoints 3XMAG bak det opprinnelige rødpunktsikte for bruk på lengre hold? Men da med 3XMAG`en montert på montasje som gjør at man kan vippe den til siden når man skal skyte på korte hold. På en måte er jo dette og bruke 2 "forskjellige" sikter.
  23. Så den A-Tec demperen som Jaktdepoet kommer med er et dumt valg til AR15? Hvor mange skudd kan man regne med at den skal vare på en slik rifle? Den blir jo kanskje noe billigere, og så kan man vist nok bytte deler ved behov.
  24. Etter at jeg skrev inn en litt tynn forklaring her, søkte jeg litt på nett og fant en veldig bra forklaring. På en optikk forums side. http://www.opticstalk.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5026&PN=1 LES OG LÆR! This article was written on another site and is credited to Paul Coburn. I thought it made for interesting reading. "I've answered questions about scope parallax about 300 times, and it's always a long drawn out thing, going several e-mails, and a few phone calls. It doesn't seem to make any difference how long the guy has been shooting, this one always keep screwing guys up. OK... here goes (Whew, this is gonna be a long one). There are several things that go on inside a scope, and in the eyes at the same time. Some of them workie against each other. But some terminology first... and we'll leave out lenses that are there to correct some optical or color errors, but don't have anything to do with image forming. We'll start at the front of it all, and work back. 1 - The "Object"... the thing that you are looking (shooting) at. 2 - The "Objective". The front lens is called the "Objective"... it forms the first image of the "object" we are looking at (that why they call it the Objective It is the lens that "captures" all the light, that is solely responsible for the image quality of the scope... if it is poor, you can't fix the poor image later. This lens is usually made of two different types of glasses (called "elements") sandwiched together, and is called an "Achromat". The Achromat is fully color corrected for blue and green. The red wavelengths are partially corrected, but have what is called "residual color errors". This is the normal type of objective used in shooting and spotting scopes. In quality, they can vary from badd, through sorta OK, to pretty damn good. If one of the elements is made of an "ED" glass, or a "Fluorite" (CaF) glass, the two element lens can be very good to friggin' outstanding. In some instances, objective lenses are made of three elements, and all three colors (blue, green, and red) are completely corrected. This type of lens is called an "Apochromat", and this is the finest lens that can be bought. The best of these can also have "ED" glass, or Fluorite as one of the elements. 3 - The "First image plane". The Objective focuses the light to make an image of the subject, just like a camera lens. This image is upside down, and right/left reversed. This is the first image plane, but NOT the "First image plane" that is talked about when shooters talk about reticles. 4 - The "Erector lens"... (if it is a group of lenses, it is called the "Erector cell"). Because the first image is upside down/wrong way around, we (as shooters) can't use it... so we flip it around with a simple optical group called the "erector cell". This cell gives us a new image that is right way around, called the second image plane. Moving this cell causes this second image plane to move... so micrometer spindles are put against the cell, to get elevation and windage adjustments. 5 - The "Second image plane". This is the second real image plane in the scope, and this is the image plane that shooters call the "First image plane" when talking about reticles. In a fixed power scope, or in a variable with a "First image plane reticle", the reticle would be placed in this image plane. This is where Premier Reticle puts those magical "Gen II" reticles. 6 - The "Zoom group". In a variable scope with standard (non-magnifying) reticle, the zoom group of optics would follow #5. This group of lenses can change the size of the image plane in #5 and then form a new (third) image plane behind it. 7 - The "Third image plane" In variable power scopes, this is the plane that the reticle is placed in. By being here, it allows the image to change sizes, but the reticle to stay the same size. In the context of reticles, this is the image plane that is referred to as the "second image plane" 8 - The "Eyepiece". This optical group is like a jewelers loupe. Is is (or should be) a super fine magnifier. It's only job in the whole world, is to focus on the reticle. Let me repeat that for those that live in Rio Linda... THE ONLY JOB FOR THE EYEPIECE IS TO FOCUS YOUR EYE ON THE RETICLE!!!! It CANNOT adjust, or compensate for, or do anything else when things look bad in the scope, or when you can't hit the target... and you CANNOT use the eyepiece to try to correct for parallax. That is sheer folly at best, and raw stupidity at worst. If you expect it to do anything else, then stop wasting your time with long-range shooting, cuz you are never gonna make it past mediocre... and take up golf!! OK... now that you know what the insides are like... lets move on. We'll use the zoom scope for our examples. cuz if you can understand the zoom scope, then the fixed scope is a walk in the park. In the scope that is set for infinity range, the object forms an image behind the objective (the first image plane)... the erector cell "sees" that image, and flips it over and makes it right way around in a NEW image plane (the Second image plane). The zoom group adjusts the size of this image plane, and makes a NEW image plane (the Third image plane) that is the desired size. There is a reticle placed in this last image plane, and the eyepiece focuses on the reticle AND the image at the same time. When things are good, that's how the scope workie! --- But... now the booger falls into the soup... IF the third image plane and the reticle are not exactly, (and I mean EX-ACT-LY) in the same place, then your eye cannot see them LOCKED together as one picture. It sees them as two separate pictures, and the eye will look at each separately, and the eye can also look AROUND one to see the other. --- Lenses are measured in metrics (aka Millimeters). Not because the Europeans wanted the metric system 20 years ago, but because optical strings and chains of lenses (like scopes) are really a string of numbers. There are constant ratios of "this divided by that's" that give image sizes, "F-ratios", and image locations. It's so damn easy to do the engineering using a 10 based system that the optical guys were using the metric system way back in the 1800's. The objective has a "Focal length"... this is the distance behind the lens that the first image plane falls when making an image if a subject that is at infinity (or very damn far away). If the objective has a focal length of 100mm, then the image of that 1000 yd target is 100mm behind the lense. But the problem with geometric optics (which is what we are dealing with here), is that they follow the laws of geometry... and optics make triangles like rabbits make babies. AND... in an optical chain, when you change one thing, one angle, one ANYTHING, everything else follows along and changes BASED on the ratios involved at THAT stage. If we take that same target, and move it to 100 yds, the image in the scope moves BACKWARDS, going further into the scope. Not by much, but it doesn't take much, cuz we're dealing with very small distances inside the scope, and very high magnifications. How far the image moves back, and what it's new position is, is predictable by the mathematical ratios of the angles formed by the subject and the first image... OR (for us dummies that lost our slip sticks) by the ratio of the distances to the Target and the focal length, multiplied by the focal length. then ADDED to the focal length. The target is at 100 yds (91440mm), the focal length of the objective is 100, so the displacement is 1/914 x 100, which means that the first image is now at ~100.1mm. Hmmm only .1mm, that doesn't seem like much. Read the following paragraph twice... In a 1x scope, 0.1mm would mean nothing... but this displacement is repeated throughout the chain, AND if any of the optical groups change the image ratio (aka image size), then the displacement (aka ERROR) is changed in direct proportion to the increase in magnification. So in a 3x scope, it would be .3mm, and in a 10x scope, it would be 1mm, and in a 30 power scope, the image would be 3mm behind the reticle. Now, you should have seen a pattern in this last paragraph. READ THIS TWICE!! With the same error in the objective (scope focused at 1000, and target at 100), the parallax INCREASES WITH MAGNIFICATION... got it? If not, READ IT TWO MORE TIMES!! OK... now, if we do the same math for closer distances, like 50 yds, and 25 yds we will see that the error gets really big, so that with a target at 50 yards, and the scope set at 35 or 65 yds, the parallax makes the combination un-usable. --- Parallax is... when the image of the target, and the reticle, are NOT in exactly the same plane, and by moving the eye up and down... or side to side, either the target OR the reticle appears to move in relation to the other. You might see the target move and the reticle stay still, or you might see the target stay still and the reticle move over it... both are exactly the same, and which you see, is only a matter of your OWN perception. It is NOT possible to have parallax while moving up and down, but not have it when you are moving side to side. If you think that is what you have, you have other problems... either you are moving the rifle, or you have eye problems. --- HOW TO SET UP A SCOPE! This is the only way to do it... First, screw the eyepiece out (CCW) all the way, until it stops. If you wear glasses, put them on. Hold the scope up and look OVER the scope at the sky, and relax your eyes. Then move the scope in front of your eye. The reticle should look fuzzy Turn the eyepiece in 1/2 turn, and do the same thing again. You will have to do for a while before the reticle starts to look better. When you start getting close, then turn the eyepiece 1/4 turn each time. Do this until the reticle is fully sharp and fully BLACK immediately when you look through the scope. Than back off one turn and do it again to make sure you are in the same place. Then LOCK the ring on the eyepiece, and leave it alone forever! Second. Set the scope down on something sold, where it can see something at a long distance... half a mile of longer is good. It can be on the rifle, and rested in sand bags at the range... but pick something at least 1000 yds away... even further if possible. If the scope has an "AO" Adjustable objective, then set it for infinity, and look at the distant object, and move your head from one side to the other, or up and down if you prefer. If the reticle seems to move, there is parallax. Change the distance setting and try again... if you are very careful, you can move your eye, and adjust the distance at the same time, seeing which direction gets better. With front objective adjustments, you can turn them either way without worry... BUT with side adjustment scopes, like the MK4-M3, the M3-LR, or the other LR family of scopes, the adjustment must ALWAYS be made from the infinity end of the dial. Turn the adjustment all the way until it stops (past infinity), and then start turning it in a little at a time, until there is no parallax. If you "overshoot" the proper setting, you can't just turn back a little, you must go back to stop at the end of the dial, and start over again. While "AO"s dials are locked in place, and if the indicated distance doesn't match the real distance, there's nothing you can do about it... the side focus dials are not locked in place. Once you have found the setting for infinity on the side focus models, then (CAREFULLY) loosen the screws, and set the dial so that little sideways infinity symbol is lined up with the hash mark, so it is calibrated. You can also make little marks or put on a paper tape for other ranges instead of using the round dots that don't match any range. Now you can set it to infinity, but remember that you MUST turn the dial all the way past infinity to the stop, EVERY TIME before going from a close range to a longer range. If you are set for 500 yds, you can go directly to 100 yds, but if you are set for 100 and want to set it to 500, you MUST go all the way back to the stop, and then go to 500 This is because there is a fair amount of backlash (aka SLOP) in this wheel linkage to the focusing cell, so you can set it only from one direction to make sure the slop is always on one side. The other problem with it is, even if you decided that you wanted to calibrate from the other end... the recoil will push the cell back. SO you must ALWAYS set these dials from the infinity end of their scales. To make it easy to not have to remember... I always start from the end stop, when I change range, no matter which direction I'm going in... it adds about 0.023 seconds! --- Now... you gots a friend that says to set up a scope a different way???... he don't know doodly-squat about scopes. The guy at the range said to do it a different way... he don't know either. You know some guy who's in the Marines says to use your eyepiece to correct parallax... he doesn't know about optics either. You got a friend that shoots benchrest and says something different... he don't know crapola! This is the way, the only way, there is no other way. ... as Rushbo would say... this is from GOD-da . You gots questions, just e-mail me. You wanna "debate it", then go play golf, cuz you're wasting my time! 'lito (gettin' grumpy in my old age!)"
  25. Noen som har erfaring med ammo fra Wolf, snakket med en som hadde bestillt det fra XXL. Til under 2kr skuddet. Det må vel være billig? Hvis de funker i Bushmaster, leste noe på Bushmaster sidene om at de kanskje ikke gjore det. Erfaringer?
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